Eomma, Don’t Let Your Korean Babies Grow Up To Be Cowboys

Meet Mama Kim, owner of Seoul’s “Grand Ole Opry,” a country-themed dive bar in a seedy part of Itaewon known as Hooker Hill.

Mama Kim, owner of Seoul’s Grand Ole Opry. All Photos courtesy of YS KIM

Mama Kim has seen it all since her bar opened in 1975, with the plan of catering to American Korean War veterans and military party boys looking for release. Looking around the busy interiors, you can already envision the shouts of “woo-hoo” bro-dom that I usually avoid.

But ever since the old U.S. military base relocated away from this area, the crowd has become mixed with queers, old regulars, African immigrants, and people showing up with their “party crew.” Owner, Mama Kim, is still holding strong and towers over her turf from behind streamers made of U.S. dollars and Korean won bills.

While on a recent trip, and in the spirit of Grand Ole Opry’s country roots, I shouted out “Yee Haw” to a full bar of patrons, many of whom turned around. I began to wonder if one of their names might actually be Yee Haw. After all, it does sound Korean.

Mama Kim is a real survivor of the area. Between the Opry’s closure during the pandemic and the recent Halloween tragedy in 2022, where a massive crowd crush led to 159 deaths (R.I.P.) in the Itaewon area. Many were afraid that these terrible events would lead to the closure of this institution, but the place is back in full force and no one should miss a chance to experience one of the most authentic and unique experiences in Itaewon. Long live the Grand Ole Opry!